Factfiles - Picture Framing

Factfiles

Mounting and Framing Your Work

Mounting

What you must remember when sketching or painting on paper is that paper sizes do not match standard frame sizes.

To mount the picture properly, the mount should be cut with even borders and must cover the edge of the paper to allow it to be fixed securely in place. some artists prefer the bottom border of the mount to be wider than the other three sides, a technique used to disguise the optical illusion of the bottom border looking more narrow when hung on the wall, but this is purely down to the personal preference of the individual.

Problems arise when people paint to the very edge of the paper and the mount ends up obliterating part of the painting.

The best method of preparation is to achieve the correct apperture size (window opening) to suit the relevant mount and frame size for the paper or pad size that you are working on. Then, very lightly, pencil in a guideline to paint to. This line should be approximately 1/4 inch (6mm) wider than the aperture, to allow a tolerance for squareness of your painting and ensure that there are no white areas of paper showing.

When using masking or gum tape to fix your paper to a board or easel, the tape can be placed tight to the edge of the pencil line.

Below are some helpful measurements for your guidance:-

Paper Size	Mount Width	Frame Size	Paint to Size
12" x 9" (30cm x 22.9cm) Pad	1.5" (3.8cm)Border	14" x 11"(35.6cm x 27.9cm)	11.5" x 8.5" (29.2cm x 21.6cm)
14" x 10" (35.6cm x 25.4cm) Pad	1.5" (3.8cm) Border	16" x 12" (40.6cm x 30.5cm)	13.5" x 9.5" (34.3cm x 24.1cm)
16" x 12" (40.6cm x 30.5cm) Pad	1.5" (3.8cm) Border	18" x 14" (45.7cm x 35.6cm)	15.5" x 9.5" (39.4 x 24.1cm)
16" x 12" (40.6cm x 30.5cm)Pad	2.5" (6.4cm) Border	20" x 16" (50.8cm x 40.6cm)	Fill Paper

*Double Mounting*	Many pictures, particularly watercolours and smaller pictures are greatly enhanced with the use of double mounts. These can be in one or two colours. It is advisable to use a colour which blends in well with one of the colours in your picture. A border of approximately 1/4" (6mm) between mounts is advisable. Your picture framer can advise and cut it to size.
*Bevel Cutting*	To cut down on costs and avoid using double mounts, some artists use a bevel cutter to score a line parallel with the inner window aperture. This can be approximatley 1/4" (6mm) away from the edge. Of course, a professional picture framer can be asked to do this service for you.
*Borders*	Similar to the bevel cutting - a border can be drawn with a very fine penline in gold or whatever colour required to give the impression of another border. This is a useful costcutting method of enhancing a picture. Some artists go to a lot of trouble to enhance their mounts by actually painting part of their picture on to the mount itself. This can be very effective, but a great deal of care needs to be taken in order not to overdo the effect.
*Picture Hooks*	Picture Hooks can be bought from most hardware suppliers. The D-ring variety made of brass and fixed with a screw is a strong method of hanging which will cut down on scratching other pictures when transporting to exhibitions. Ring hooks can be used but will possibly mark other picture frames in transit if not properly wrapped. Ring hooks do not require any extra screws and can be twisted in by hand once a starting hole has been made. Just use a gimlet or tap in a small nail that can be removed once a starter hole has been made. Be careful not to use too big a nail otherwise the starter hole will be too large and the hook may fall out under pressure! Some gallery owners require the artist to use mirror hooks or brackets. These are flat brackets with two or more screw holes which are fixed to the back of the frame which can then be screwed to the wall. This method of hanging is most usual in public places where there is a security problem. One point to remember is that the screws must not be so long that they go through the wood of the frame and show on the front. Not only is this unsightly, but it will make the picture unsaleable. Care must be taken!
*String or Wire!*	Nylon picture hanging cord can be bought at most hardware outlets. Do not use cord which is weak as this may break and the picture could fall and cause an injury. If you have a very large, heavy frame, it is advisable to use a pre-wound wire which can be bought from reputable picture framers. It is not worth economising on this aspect of picture framing. If you use nylon cord - a good tip is to tie the ends up with a strong knot and then seal the ends by using a flame. this bonds the ends together and prevents the cord from fraying and unravelling.
*Type of Frame*	The type of frame is a personal matter. The popular choice is for natural wood. Whatever is chosen should enhance the picture and not clash with it. Too many people stint on the choice of frame and buy a cheap mass-produced one which does little or nothing for the picture. So often amateur artists do not buy a large enough frame and therefore use too small a mount or no mount at all. This is false economy - for if the picture has taken many hours to paint, it should be shown in the best way possible. Naturally, the cost must be considered to match the pocket of the artist, but a general rule of thumb should be to buy the best you can afford.
*Tape*	Many amateur artists do not bother to tape up the back of the picture frame. This may cause the picture to become damaged. It gives a neater appearance and it looks far more professional if one takes the trouble to seal the back of the picture frame with gummed paper tape. This can be bought in most art materials shops.
*Last Word*	The pictures painted by artists should be enjoyed to their fullest advantage. By following the hints and tips above, the pictures will last for many years and give much pleasure to all who look at them.
	*These notes can be copied - Artnetdirectory 2002*
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